If a tree falls in the back yard,
and I didn’t hear it fall… did it really fall?
You better believe it fell! After
my stealth husband and his ever ready chainsaw discovered more wood for the
burn-pile. And everyone knows that the biggest burn-pile in the neighborhood
wins—or burns down the neighborhood, which ever comes first.
So who cares if another tree hits
the dust?
Let me be clear: My favorite
strawberry tree WAS one of three, strategically placed, lovely trees. For seven
years I watched and waited for the trees to produce a bit of shade. Finally, at
six feet tall they gave me red bark, yellow blossoms, red berry thingies and
some blessed shade. Strawberry trees resemble Manzanitas with pretty ornaments
dangling among the shiny green foliage. They thrive in heat and freezing
temperatures. I imagined they would live forever … little did I know I would
end up with a nub and a leaf.
Subsequently, someone has lost his
chainsaw-privileges.
Here are some tips on planting
your own strawberry tree.
Strawberry trees are best planted young because they resent disturbance
(like loud chainsaws). Sun and warmth are essential, so choose a sheltered
position in well-drained soil away from frost pockets and burn-piles. Never
allow water-logging. Plant in spring where possible, to allow the plant several
months to acclimate before winter sets in. Be prepared to cosset your young plant
through its first few winters by covering it with a fleece liner in extremely
cold weather. As the tree matures, it will become hardier. Pruning prevents fruit
setting as the "strawberries" are formed from the previous year's
flowers. Pruning down to a nub is not recommended. Early summer is the time to
cut back any long stems. Seed can be sown into sand but the resulting plants
will vary. Better to take semi-ripe cuttings in late summer. These will root in
a heated propagator.
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